Friday 28th Feb, Fremantle town, and cousins!
This morning, Nana and I set off into Fremantle to try to find breakfast for less than $34 a head. We wandered out via the hotel pool complex (though not in togs so we weren't able to enjoy the full experience!) The town around the hotel is quite funky and fun, with lots of interesting shops, and a large park opposite. We found the Ghetto Blaster cafe not far away, and ordered coffee, a granola bar and the largest Anzac biscuit the world has ever seen (breakfast for Mum for the whole weekend I think). It was a little hole-in-the-wall place with outside dining only, but lovely coffee and appealing food. And only $16.50 for both of us, so a good discount! There was another group there with a lovely guide dog named Sophie who came over to check if we were willing to share. After breakfast we continued to wander, marvelling at the interesting shops - hardly any major chain retailers, at least where we were. There seemed to be bookshops at every turn, a New Edition bookshop, a second hand bookshop, a children's bookshop... and all needed a lot longer to browse than we had. The children's bookshop included a wardrobe-doorway into the next room that was just magical, and I've decided I need one of these at my house. We also met a cute wee pup called Peerie at the "Chart and Map shop" - what town has one of those!?! The woman who owned the shop makes bespoke 3D maps to order, and you can tell her about your experiences or preferences and she will make it for you. The photos don't really do the maps justice, but they were super fun. The rest of the shop was filled with maps, and books about maps, and puzzles about maps and everything you could think of. Plus a cute wee pup. We also bought a stylish hat for Mum for tomorrow at the junky newsagent / souvenir shop.
We made our way back to the hotel to meet Ken, Mum's cousin. Ken's dad is the brother of Mum's mum. They knew each other (a little) as children, and have met a number of times as adults. It was Ken that heard about the new memorial to HMAS Perth, and shared the information with Mum, leading to this whole trip. Ken lives in Duncraig (northern 'suburb' of Perth) but has come to stay in Fremantle at the same hotel as us for the weekend. He happened to arrive by taxi just as we walked back in through the door which was perfect timing. He has done lots of research about John Innes, and more generally Mum's family history, and was keen to show us all that he had found out, so we had a long talk over cups of tea. He then recommended a walk across the park to a nice place for a fish and chip lunch. On the way over, through Esplanade Park, I managed to convince them both to come on the Tourist Wheel with me - Ken's first time in a ferris wheel (aged 94). It was a very smooth ride, but slightly disorientating - and also a little tricky to access for those needing help with steps.
As we crossed the railway line, Ken explained that the standard gauge rail in Australia is 4ft 8, while WA used 3ft 6, so there were three rails down. There are a number of different gauges used across Australia, a case of each state doing its own thing and not really considering the bigger picture!
We were headed for Ciserello's for fish and chips but it looked a bit far away, so we decided to go to Little Creatures instead, right in front of us. Little Creatures is a small brewery and restaurant (which used to be a crocodile farm) on the water's edge in Fremantle, obviously a really happening place based on the number of customers ordering food and drinking lots and lots of beer on a regular Friday lunchtime. Definitely a place where the cool kids hang out, so obviously we felt right at home!
After lunch, we went on a reconnaissance mission to the memorial site for tomorrow, mainly so we would know where the toilets are! It was actually a really good decision, because there was hardly anyone else there so we had a good look around, spoke to some of the organisers and proud members of the club where the memorial is located, and had a quick look through the inside displays as well - all of which will be a lot harder and potentially less pleasant tomorrow with hundreds of people in attendance. The memorial really is quite stunning, the shape of a ship's bow, with photos of the crew on glass. There is a half size model of the ship's propellor, and several walls of remembrance. It has been beautifully put together, and the displays inside add a lot of extra background information. There is a flag on display inside that was salvaged from the wreck (in the 60s I think). One of the stories we were told was that the sailors smuggled a cat on board. They tried to hide it from the captain but when the captain found out he basically made it his cat. The cat (later named Redlead) walked through some red paint and left footprints on the deck, and so on the HMAS Perth III, red cat footprints have been added in several places around the ship in memory of Redlead.
On our return, it was time for the travellers to nap and restore energy for the evening shift. Todd (Mum's sister's youngest child) and his wife Lesley have also come to Fremantle, and specifically the Esplanade Hotel, for the weekend from Esperance, a 700km drive, mostly in a straight line, away. We met in the lobby for dinner. The Esplanade Hotel was tonight also hosting a school ball for a local high school. It seems like an expensive night out, as many of the young people appeared to be staying the night here, with or without doting families, on top of what I imagine to be a fairly steep venue cost for the event. So there were lots of beautiful young people around in flouncy frilly dresses with unnaturally curly hair and lovely make-up. I'm guessing we will hear more from them around midnight, or whenever the ball finishes!
The five of us (Mum, Ken, Todd, Lesley and I) ate dinner in the hotel restaurant, getting to know each other. I had never met Todd and Lesley, though they had met up with quite a number of the Takahiwai Pirihis last month while they were in NZ visiting Lesley's family. Todd and Ken had also never met, and I met Ken for the first time today, so it was a lovely time talking, with this memorial and specifically John Innes being our primary point of connection.
Back in our room now to fall into bed, and hope that our nap this afternoon hasn't damaged our ability to sleep tonight. It feels unlikely, to be honest.
The temperature today has been very pleasant - a bit hotter under the sun this morning while we were out sightseeing, but very comfortable through the afternoon. There are crows living near the hotel who make some very strange noises, somewhere in between a duck quacking and a lamb baa-ing. Very strange and unfamiliar, and they seem to bring a kind of dark energy when you see them - maybe I'm just not used to them.
We have booked a taxi for 8.30 to get to the memorial in the morning in plenty of time. If I have time, I will run down to the Ghetto Blaster for another granola bar for breakfast, else the hotel might get their $34 after all. Todd, Lesley and Mum are all breakfast-avoiders, so hotel profits will be limited! Maybe the hundreds of ball-goers will all make up for it.
Perth looks very different to other parts of Aussie that I've seen. Quite different architecture and urban design by the look of it.
ReplyDeleteLittle Creatures is a big operation - they opened a brewery/bar/restaurant in Auckland a few years ago.
You look to be filling every moment with lovely things. What a special time for you all. Thanks for taking the time to send through such full updates,
ReplyDelete